Melasma, a common skin condition characterized by brown or gray-brown patches on the face, poses a significant challenge for many individuals seeking a radiant and even complexion. While professional dermatological interventions exist, there is a growing interest in over the counter melasma treatments.

This condition is often related with hormonal fluctuations, making it more common among women, particularly those taking birth control pills, pregnant, or undergoing hormonal therapy. Sun exposure and genetic predisposition are also important factors in the development of melasma.

The discoloration in melasma occurs due to the overproduction of melanin. This excess melanin accumulates in certain areas of the skin, leading to the characteristic brown or gray-brown patches. Commonly affecting the forehead, cheeks, and upper lip, melasma can significantly impact an individual's self-esteem.

Over the Counter Melasma Treatments

Over the counter melasma treatments offer a convenient and accessible approach for managing melasma, particularly in mild to moderate cases. Below, we outline specific categories of over the counter melasma treatments and highlight some well-known brands and formulations.

Topical Skin-Lightening Agents

Before diving into specific ingredients and products, you should be warned that although Hydroquinone and Tretinoin-containing products are available as over the counter melasma treatment in the Philippines, they should never be used without a dermatologist’s prescription. These ingredients pose significant potential side effects and could do more harm than good when used incorrectly. Below are some of the products and ingredients you should be on the lookout for when you do your next beauty haul.

1. Niacinamide or Vitamin B3

Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3 or nicotinamide, is a versatile and well-tolerated ingredient in skincare formulations. It has gained a lot of attention lately mainly due to its effectiveness in addressing various skin concerns, including melasma.

One of the primary mechanisms through which niacinamide operates is by inhibiting melanin production. Niacinamide helps regulate the transfer of melanosomes (the structures containing melanin) from melanocytes (pigment-producing cells) to keratinocytes (skin cells). By doing so, it reduces the overall melanin content in the skin, contributing to a more even complexion.

Products to try: The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% Serum, La Roche Posay 10% Pure Niacinamide Serum, COSRX Galactomyces 95 Tone Balancing Essence

2. Vitamin C

Topical Vitamin C is known for its various skincare benefits, including its potential to address hyperpigmentation issues like melasma. It inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, a key player in the production of melanin. In melasma, where there is an overproduction of melanin, the ability of Vitamin C to modulate tyrosinase activity can contribute to a reduction in hyperpigmentation.

Vitamin C is also a potent antioxidant, which helps neutralize free radicals. Free radicals are unstable molecules generated by factors like UV radiation and environmental pollutants. They can contribute to skin damage, inflammation, and pigmentation irregularities. By scavenging free radicals, Vitamin C protects the skin from oxidative stress, which is implicated in the development and exacerbation of melasma.

Products to try: Kiehl’s Clearly Corrective Dark Spot Solution, Dermorepubliq 15% L-Ascorbic Acid + E + Ferulic Acid Brightening Formula Serum, Klued Vit C 15% Serum, Dear Klairs Freshly Juiced Vitamin Drop

3. Alpha arbutin

Derived from the bearberry plant, alpha arbutin is considered a gentler alternative to other skin-brightening agents like hydroquinone. It works by inhibiting the activity of the enzyme tyrosinase, which is crucial for the production of melanin. It also works by reducing the concentration of melanin in the skin, particularly in areas affected by melasma.

Alpha arbutin is generally well-tolerated, making it suitable for individuals with sensitive skin. Its gentle nature allows for regular use without causing excessive dryness or irritation.

Products to try: The Ordinary Alpha Arbutin 2% + Hyaluronic Acid Serum, The Inkey List Alpha Arbutin 2%, Beauty of Joseon Glow Deep Serum : Rice + Alpha Arbutin

4. Kojic Acid

Kojic acid, derived from Aspergillus oryzae, a type of fungi, is a well-known and widely used ingredient in skincare formulations. Kojic acid is used in cosmetic products especially those designed to address hyperpigmentation issues like melasma. Similar to other skin-lightening agents, Kojic acid works by inhibiting the activity of the enzyme tyrosinase. It also interferes in melanin synthesis and contributes to the gradual fading of hyperpigmentation associated with melasma.

Kojic acid can promote mild exfoliation, aiding in the removal of dead skin cells. This exfoliation contributes to the renewal of the skin's surface and may help fade existing hyperpigmentation over time.

Products to try: BELO Kojic Acid + Tranexamic Acid SPF30 face and Neck Cream, Kojie San Skin Lightening Kojic Acid Soap, Kojie San Skin Lightening Cleanser + Toner

5. Tranexamic Acid

Topical tranexamic acid (TXA) has recently emerged as a promising option in the treatment of melasma. Topical tranexamic acid works by inhibiting plasmin, an enzyme involved in fibrinolysis. In the context of melasma, the inhibitory effect extends to melanogenesis, the process of melanin production.

It is also known for its ability to stabilize blood vessels. In melasma, vascular abnormalities and increased vascularity in the skin may contribute to the development of pigmentation.

Products to try: Good Molecules Discoloration Correcting Serum, The Inkey List 2% Tranexamic Acid Serum, BELO Intensive Whitening Bar Kojic + Tranexamic Acid Exfoliating Soap, Skinceuticals Discoloration Defense Serum

6. Retinol

Retinol, a derivative of vitamin A, is a well-known and widely used ingredient in skincare for its various benefits, including its potential to address hyperpigmentation. Retinol promotes cellular turnover, encouraging the shedding of old and pigmented skin cells. By speeding up the cell renewal process, retinol contributes to a more even distribution of melanin, reducing the appearance of melasma.

Retinol has also been shown to inhibit melanin production similar to the other ingredients discussed above. This helps in gradually lightening the melasma patches. Retinol is often included in combination therapies for melasma, alongside other active ingredients like Vitamin C and alpha arbutin.

Products to try: Good Molecules Gentle Retinol Cream, Innisfree Retinol Cica Moisture Recovery Serum, Some by Mi Retinol Intense Reactivating Serum, Klued 0.5% Retinol Serum, Olay Retinol 24 Serum

7. Sunscreen/Sunblock

As cliche as it may sound at this point, sun protection remains the foundation of a good melasma treatment. Sun protection is crucial for preventing further pigmentation and aiding in the fading of existing dark spots. Look for sunscreen/sunblocks that are at least SPF 30.

Oral Over the Counter Melasma Treatments

Oral melasma treatments involve the use of medications or supplements taken by mouth to address hyperpigmentation from within the body. Although a number of agents are being used today as oral melasma treatments, most of them require prescription. Since we are only talking about over the counter melasma treatments, such medications are excluded in the discussion.

1. Oral Vitamin C

Vitamin C is useful for melasma both topically and orally. While direct evidence for oral vitamin C alone in melasma treatment is limited, its antioxidant properties and benefits for skin health make it a popular supplement in skincare regimens.

2. Oral Antioxidants

Antioxidants, such as vitamins E and A, can help neutralize free radicals and reduce oxidative stress, which may play a role in melasma. Research on the specific use of oral antioxidants for melasma is limited, but antioxidants are generally recognized for their skin-protective properties.

3. Pynocare (Procyanidin + Ascorbic Acid + Betacarotene + d-Alpha-Tocopheryl Acetate)

Pynocare is the first and only oral over the counter melasma treatment that is clinically-proven safe and effective in reducing melasma. It contains a combination of procyanidin and vitamins A, C, and E, all known to be antioxidant powerhouses. Their synergistic action ensures reduction in melasma appearance in as early as 8 weeks as well as preventing recurrence. It is recommended by dermatologists and trusted by those who suffer from melasma.

Where to Buy Them?

Most of the products mentioned are available in leading drugstores, supermarkets, and beauty stores nationwide. Some might be harder to find and can only be purchased online, just make sure to check the authenticity of these online stores and products before buying.

Importance of Consulting a Dermatologist

Keep in mind that expert advice from dermatologists is still the most important aspect of treating melasma. This is for several reasons such as professional evaluation of your skin, personalized recommendations based on your specific needs, monitoring progress and making adjustments as needed, and addressing possible occurrence of side effects.

• Professional Assessment: Dermatologists can conduct a thorough evaluation of your skin, and take into consideration factors such as skin type, sensitivity, and other existing conditions.

• Personalized Recommendations: Dermatologists can tailor a treatment plan based on your specific needs, ensuring that the selected products and routines align with your skin's requirements.

• Prescription Strength Products: For severe cases, prescription-strength treatments may be necessary. Dermatologists can prescribe medications that are not available over the counter.

• Monitoring Progress: Dermatologists can monitor your progress over time, making adjustments to your treatment plan as needed for optimal results.

• Addressing Possible Side Effects: In the event of adverse reactions or side effects, dermatologists can provide guidance on how to properly manage and avoid these issues.